Bill in the Bahamas - NASSAU and PARADISE ISLAND

Quote: A visit to the Bahamas is definitely more relaxing for me than a trip to Paris, where I would be caught up with visiting every museum and cultural attraction possible. Nassau / Paradise Island is a good place to relax and enjoy the hot and humid climate of the Caribbean.

Quick Tips:

The Bahamian dollar has the exact same value as the US dollar, so you can bring your own money if you wish. Note that some ATM's dispense only one kind of currency, not both.

The Straw Market, located near the dock area, is a popular place to look for locally made handicrafts. This is a shoppers delight if you enjoy the haggling and the bargaining. Also near the dock is a hair braiding pavilion if you want a few strands or all of your hair beaded and braided. Overall, I found the salespeople in Nassau to be amiable and not too annoying with their sales pitches.

Best Way To Get Around:

Since the Bahamas was formerly a British colony and is a standing member of the British Commonwealth, the traffic is "reversed" from that found in the States. Who is to say that they or we drive on the "wrong" side of the road?

Taxis are usually available, but they are not dirt-cheap. At least the drivers are not too pesky when they are gently asking if you need a ride. Tiny ferryboats cross between Nassau and Paradise Island throughout the day, with each ride costing between .50 and each way. Jitney buses can be flagged down to and from downtown Nassau, with rides starting at one dollar. None of these jitneys cross over to Paradise Island. There are tolls if you drive over one of the two bridges linking Nassau to Paradise Island. I have read that there is a small toll for walking across, but I was never charged.

Quote: This was my first experience at a Club Med, and my third visit to an all-inclusive property, and I must say that Club Med is by far the best of the ones I have stayed at. The property arranged a driver to meet me at the Nassau airport, and I was the only passenger in the van. The check-in area is actually outside, with a few tables in an arcaded wooden walkway. The GO's (Gentil Organisateur in French, or "congenial host" in English) at the Club Med made me feel very welcome with courteous service and a refreshing juice drink. I did not have much luggage, so I brought it right to my room. I have heard that other people with more luggage had to wait up to 30 minutes for their belongings, one of the few negatives I encountered during my week-long stay.

The property has over 300 rooms scattered in several building clusters to create more of an open resort feel. My room faced the Atlantic Ocean, so I could hear the waves crashing along Paradise Beach. However, I had no view of the ocean since my room was on the first floor. My room was not fancy, but suitably comfortable with two European twin beds, a shower stall with just a few toiletries, hairdryer, and one closet and in-room safe per guest (sometimes single guests are matched up with a roommate, but I had the room all to myself). There is a small TV with plenty of stations (check out the Club Med channel for a great soundtrack of Caribbean music), a couple of small tables, and not much else. The philosophy is that you will not spend a whole lot of time in your room, so if you are ok with that you will enjoy your stay even more.

There is a shuttle boat service ($5 round trip) between the Club Med and the Nassau port. The excursions desk is very helpful if you would like to see a bit more of the Bahamas off-property. The boutique has a few items of mild interest, but it comes in handy if you need to buy a few stamps for your postcards. The reception area has a bulletin board which posts departure flights for all guests, so be sure to check that for your ride to the airport. The security patrol on property is visible but not overbearing. Gratuities are not necessary with the all-inclusive package.

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Club Med is famous for loads of activities, and this Paradise Island property is no exception. This one is highly regarded for it's tennis facilities, with 20 courts and hands-on instruction. The pool was under renovation, but you can do your swimming in the strong currents of the Atlantic Ocean. Other activities include windsurfing, scuba diving, archery, ping-pong, spa treatments, volleyball, and basketball. Aerobics sessions are conducted in a renovated chapel building, and there is an air-conditioned workout room next door with a few pieces of exercise equipment. One can relax on the lengthy Paradise Beach, a public beach that is guarded day and night. You can walk to the western end past the yoga retreat, or check out the eastern end that butts up against the adjacent Atlantis property. Nudity on the beach is officially frowned upon, but there were a few topless women sunbathers, and even a couple of totally naked men in a secluded part of the beach.

There is a nightly variety show at the theater, usually consisting of amusing skits performed by the versatile GO's, although sometimes there is some memorable audience participation involving the GM's (Gentil Membres, or "congenial guests"). On the surface, lip-synch acts and relay races may seem a bit corny, but it's all professionally done and you'll usually end your evenings here with a smile or a few belly laughs. If you want to continue your night moves, you can dance away your sorrows in the intimate nightclub.

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To me, the highlight of the all-inclusive Club Med Paradise Island is the food. There is a more formal restaurant on-site (Grayleigh), but this section is focused on the main dining hall. There are large, air-conditioned non-smoking and smoking sections, with some spillover onto a few al fresco tables. The dining hall faces Nassau Harbour, so you can catch glimpses of downtown Nassau and the large cruise liners docked there. The tables have from four to eight seats, so there is ample opportunity to mingle with other GM's (Gentil Membres in French, or "congenial guests" in English) and GO's (Gentil Organisateurs, or "congenial hosts") from around the world. I ate every meal possible here, and it was fun to socialize and swap travel anecdotes with people. The GO's wear nametags with flags indicating what languages they speak, although with guests you have to guess if they are French or American.

The three daily buffets are amazingly diverse and delicious. There are stations for beverages, cold items (salads), hot items, soups, pizza, fruits, and desserts. The food is all self-serve except for a few carved meat items. The breakfast buffets are tasty but not adventurous, with the most unusual item being rice and raisin pudding (I had this during breakfast twice during my stay). The lunch menu is usually very diverse, including very good dessert selections. The impressive dinner buffets have different themes depending on the day of the week. I can honestly say that these dinner buffets are of an incredible value because of the variety and quality of the food. French Night featured delicacies like frog legs, rabbit, escargot, and onion soup. Italian Night featured osso buco, eggplant parmesan and polenta. Mediterranean Night starred paella, moussaka, souvlaki, calamari, and couscous. Asian Night had spring rolls, duck, noodles, sushi. Seafood night had a zillion kinds of seafood, but enough meat and veggie selections for landlubbers like me. Desserts can be a buffet in itself, with rotating selections like tiramisu, profiteroles, baklava, sacher torte, baked alaska, black forest cake, fruit pies. If these are too rich for you, there is always fresh fruit and self-serve soft ice cream.

The hours for breakfast are 7:30am to 10:00am. Lunch runs from 12:30pm to 2:00pm. Dinner is held from 7:30pm to 9:30pm.

An all-inclusive drink package is $179 per week, which may or may not be worth it depending on your penchant for drink. You can belly up to the main bar next to the theater or the beachside bar. I enjoyed selections ranging from Kalik (the most popular local beer) to Gatorade.

A word of thanks to all the friendly folks I met at the Club Med, including my favorite GO Roxanna!

Quote: The Atlantis is generally regarded as the most flamboyant hotel in the Nassau / Paradise Island area. This humongous property seemingly occupies half of Paradise Island, with a Vegas-like scale and opulence to it. Approaching the towers of the complex you will be amazed by the bright, peach-colored exteriors surrounded by winged horses, waterfalls, flying dolphins, and decoratively supportive seahorses.

The two big attractions to the Atlantis are the "Dig" and the Casino. The Dig is the nickname for the "world's largest marine habitat", designed as an artist's impression of what an underground archaeological excavation of the lost continent of Atlantis would look like. Some parts of the Dig are for guests only unless you pay an admission fee, but you can still see quite a bit of the display for free. The lower level aquarium is stocked with an impressive array of creatures like hammerhead sharks, manta rays, lobsters crawling on the ersatz ocean floor, and about 200 species of tropical fish. If you step outside, you can look down into the water and occasionally see a shark fin thrusting through the surface of the water. There are over 50,000 sea creatures living in 11 lagoons.

The Paradise Island Casino at the Atlantis is probably the grandest of the casinos in Nassau / Paradise Island. Interestingly enough, Bahamians are not allowed to gamble in their homeland, but tourists are certainly welcome to try out various games of chance. The colorful glassworks of renowned artist Dale Chihuly embellish the casino.

There are 23 floors with over 2300 deluxe rooms, each with its own balcony. The pool and beach areas, along with the infamous Mayan temple water slide (the Mayans would have loved such a contraption!), are reserved for paying guests or visitors on a day pass.

There are many restaurants and shops for you to choose from. One can easily stay on property for an extended period of time and not be bored if you were to choose to do so.

Quote: This landmark hotel, located on the former site of Fort Nassau, is still one of the most famous properties in downtown Nassau. Originally built in 1900, the hotel burned down in 1920 and was rebuilt in 1923. Scenes from two James Bond movies were filmed on location here. The Hilton slapped its name on this property in 1999 and millions of dollars were spent to replenish it. It's large scale and bright ochre exterior make this property one of the anchors of Bay Street.

Walk into the lobby and you will feel that this is more of an old-fashioned businessman's retreat. This is definitely not the hang-loose Club Med or the razzle-dazzle Atlantis! There is a refined quality in the relatively quiet lobby, with a concierge desk and seating area flanking the central staircase. This is a good place to read a newspaper, wait for friends, or plot your upcoming travel agenda. I bought a couple of postcards in the convenience store, and the sales clerk broke out into an uplifting gospel song! Well, perhaps the hotel is not that stuffy and formal after all.

The hotel has seven floors and 291 rooms, but it looks much larger than these numbers might indicate. The rooms are certainly nice enough, but since it's an older property the rooms are not oversized. The hotel has a couple of restaurants and bars. The "back" of the hotel faces the channel that separates Nassau and Paradise Island. Guests can enjoy the outdoor freshwater pool and the secluded beach. You can also enjoy the tennis courts, health club and jacuzzi.

Quote: Ardastra Gardens are a bit hidden away about one mile west of downtown Nassau. Ardastra is a bit smallish at about 5.5 acres in size, but it proudly bills itself as a zoo, botanical garden, and conservation center. With over 300 animals, Ardastra has the largest collection of Bahamian land animals and makes efforts to preserve many of these endangered species. The star attraction is the Marching Flamingo shows held 2-3 times a day. A local chap named Joe barks commands at the flock of pink Caribbean flamingos (the national bird of the Bahamas), and they march and circle about in this viewing pen. The informative announcer noted that Joe has been doing this flamingo show for over 40 years, and some of the veteran flamingos have been obeying orders for ten to thirty years. Because of their sensitive diet, the animals cannot be given any food rewards so the group applause is encouraged as a form of reward for the creatures. Near the conclusion of each show, members of the audience can step into the ring to pose with the flamingos.

There is no map of the complex, but the animal exhibits are numbered and there are a few red arrows to lend a sense of order. Guests can feed lory parrots by hand or get very close to peacocks walking about unfettered. You can see iguanas, monkeys, calyparas (these guys look like giant hamsters), a pot-bellied pig, Bahama parrots, a cockatoo, a boa constrictor, and much much more! Obviously the animals are the stars of the show, but there is an interesting variety of fruit trees and other flora.

Ardastra has a small snack shop and souvenir shop. The complex is open 7 days a week from 9AM to 5PM. The entrance fee is $12, but practically every tourism brochure or newsletter has a coupon redeemable for a free t-shirt in the store. There are package deals that will include shuttle bus pick up at hotels (usually $20) if you book in advance, but I did not mind the healthy walk west from downtown Nassau.

Quote: This area is a bit removed from the shopping areas in downtown Nassau, but it is worth the minor effort to wander around this area. One can easily visit this historic area independently, though many folks come through on organized tours.

You will probably approach the area from the north and encounter the Queen's Staircase, which has 65 (formerly 66) stairs carved out of limestone cliffs by slaves in 1790. The stair leads to what is known as Bennet's Hill. The canyon created by the stair excavation is rather quiet, as you see a vertical wall with a trickling waterfall, accompanied by a few palm trees and vines. You may encounter a few genial vendors selling t-shirts, local handicrafts, or cool drinks. You may also run into guides looking for a tip, but hiring one is really not necessary here at all.

Fort Fincastle is a tiny stronghold commissioned by Governor Lord Dunmore in 1789. This is one of three historic forts remaining on Nassau (the other two are Fort Charlotte and Fort Montagu). The basic fort is circular, with an extension that has been compared to a bow of a ship. There are a few old cannons on the site, which has no admission fee. Again you may encounter guides here, but they usually like to hang around groups of tourists. Take the easy climb to the roof deck of the fort for a better view of the surrounding area.

The water tower is shaped like a huge white saltshaker, so it is not much to look at. The top of the water tower (which is also a lighthouse), with a height of 126 feet, is the highest point of New Providence Island at a height of 216 feet above sea level. Since there is a general local ban on skyscrapers, the observation deck affords stunning 360-degree panoramic views of Nassau and of Paradise Island across the way. The entrance fee is a measly 50 cents, and you can either take the elevator or climb the circular interior stairway that wraps around the elevator shaft. The entrance level has a small snack shop and lavatory. Outside there are friendly vendors selling local items, and a few stray dogs yearning for a cooler climate.

Quote: Fort Charlotte is the largest and perhaps the most interesting of the three forts remaining in Nassau (the others being Fort Fincastle and Fort Montagu). Governor Lord Dunmore also commissioned Fort Charlotte, and it was constructed from 1787 to 1789. It looks a bit isolated on its strategic hilltop location.

Walk over the raised walkway to enter the complex, constructed from limestone and surrounded by a dry oat and battlements. There is a curious set of concrete steps on the west side, apparently constructed for tourists to sit and enjoy the surrounding views (at least that was what I did). Old cannons are posted at what would be important defensive locations. The fort is definitely not one of the most visually appealing structures, and it indeed appears a bit run down, but it is fun to see old graffiti carved into the walls by soldiers who were stationed there. Take a walk into the belly of the beast through some dank underground passages to see some dungeon-like rooms, including an area with a dilapidated dummy strapped to some sort of torture bed.

There is free admission into Fort Charlotte, but you may encounter a guide who will expect a tip if you use his services. It is located west of downtown Nassau, near the cricket pitch, the Botanical Gardens and well-advertised Ardastra gardens.

Quote: The symbolic Government House is the residence of the Governor-General, the official Queen's Representative to the Bahamas. It is located on an elevated plateau, patrolled by armed guards at two gates and surrounded by pink-painted walls. The pink-and-white neoclassical colonial building, constructed in 1801, is not accessible to the public. For security reasons, the helpful guard will tell you where you can and cannot stand or walk. He impressed me by saying a few words in Cantonese, and good-naturedly warned me that he would have to chase me down if I did not follow his directions. The north side of the hill features an unusual statue of Christopher Columbus depicted with a beard; it was presented to the government in 1829. There is also an old cannon posed in attack mode.

The Changing of the Guard ceremony is held in front of Government House on alternate Saturday mornings. The Royal Bahamian Police Force Band conducts this ceremony. The tradition is a remnant of the old days of British rule, as the Bahamas are a standing member of the British Commonwealth.

Near the Government House is Gregory's Arch, a small viaduct cut into the hill to provide a shortcut for locals going from downtown Nassau to their humble homes inland.

Quote: The semi-formal arrangement of government buildings designed in the Georgian style fill Parliament Square. A youthful seated statue of Queen Victoria is on the northern edge of the square while across the street, Rawson Plaza creates a welcome bit of open space in downtown Nassau.

Parliament Square seems packed with these pink and white structures, including the Senate, House of Assembly, and Supreme Court. There is a small park with a marker commemorating the soldiers killed during previous wars. Posh shops and smaller trinket shops, along with a couple of restaurants, flank the two long sides of the square. Watch for the movement of cars here, though they are all going slowly past the government complex.

The south end of Parliament Square features the octagonal Public Library. This building was formerly the town jail when it was built in 1797. The library has hopelessly outgrown the size of the original building, but the librarians and the school kids gamely use the facilities here. Some of the old cells have been converted into bookshelves and displays. Unfortunately the former dungeons are not accessible to the public. Walk up the stairs to the top balcony for some views of Parliament Square. Watch out for birds roosting overhead and bundled stacks of old yellowing newspapers on the ground (are these the archives?).

Quote: The story of the Cloisters is unique. This Augustinian cloister originally was located in southwestern France, dating from the 12th Century. It was purchased by Huntington Hartford (who at one point owned all of Paradise Island) and delivered in pieces to the Bahamas. However, the pieces of the now dismantled cloister were not labeled, so imagine a large "assembly required" item that does not have an instructions sheet! It was reassembled in 1962 under the guidance of Jean Castre-Manne to the best of his ability. The arrangements of the different classical fragments do have a random quality to them. The open-air courtyard of the cloister features a sculpture of a woman. There are plants and flowers growing about to lend a romantic character to the ruins. On its south side, a little round "temple" with classical columns faces the water and acts as the endpoint of the north-south axis that runs through the Versailles garden and shoots through the Cloisters. This gazebo faces Nassau Harbour and is a popular setting for posh weddings.

The Versailles Gardens, along with the Cloisters, are part of the Ocean Club property, but both seem to be quiet enough where you can ramble through without any interference. The north-south axis that runs through the gardens aligns a string of several classical sculptures, and nearby is a statue of FDR, a hero of Hunt's. The Ocean Club’s groundskeepers immaculately manicure the stepped lawns. The north end of the axis is the pool of the Ocean Club, but this is more of a private area so be careful if you venture this far. Even though you would think that this garden would have a cooling effect, there is very little shade so you are liable to fry under the strong Bahamian sun.

Both the Versailles Gardens and the Cloisters are located in the eastern part of Paradise Island and are a pleasant 15-minute stroll from the Atlantis. If you are staying in Nassau, it will take a bit more effort to visit, but both are pleasant to visit as a tandem if you are in the area.

Quote: I booked an all-day excursion (about 8 hours total) with Island World Adventures, a very reputable outfit that does day trips to Exuma. The powerboat seats about two-dozen passengers and makes pickups at Club Med and the nearby Paradise Island Ferry Terminal around 9AM. There is a minimal amount of commentary from the captain, mainly because you are roaring through the ocean on an hour-long ride to Saddleback Cay, one of the northern Exuma Islands in the Bahamas. Complimentary beverages are passed out during the ride, but keep in mind that the only facilities you will encounter are the two tiny lavatories below deck in the front of the boat.

Once you are docked at Saddleback Cay (about 40 miles from Nassau), you will meet the hosts, a couple which are basically caretakers of this cay. This is basically a stripped down version of Gilligan's Island, but in a good way. There is a nice beach where you can relax or walk about, or you can take a look at the interesting selection of critters (geckos, hermit crabs) and pests (mosquitoes, bring a good repellent!). The powerboat then pulls out to a reef area for some snorkeling. The captain is careful to mention areas that are safer than others, as he does not want divers to stray too far from the boat.

Lunch is served back on the island, with a decent buffet of salad, pasta, chicken, fish, veggies, fruit and cookies. You can get beverages like juices, water, Kalik beer or a mean rum punch. Sit at one of the wooden benches under thatched roof canopies and swap travel stories with your new mates. You are advised to save the chicken bones and other leftovers so that you can feed them to the sharks, barracudas and seagulls. Get into the water and you can feed stingrays, or just let them sideswipe your legs with their smooth bodies (quite a sensation!).

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The Exuma Excursion continues with a nature hike, where our host points out some space junk, a couple of old buildings, and some nice panoramic scenery. Unless you enjoy walking barefoot on a variety of rough surfaces, wear some sandals or water-friendly footgear. The hike is not too rigorous, but you will wade through knee-high water and climb some steps surrounded by shrubbery.

The powerboat then takes you to Leaf Cay, one of the Allan's Cay Islands. This little piece of land is the home to some Bahamian rock iguanas, some growing to a length of three feet or so. You can swim ashore (the boat does not dock on Leaf Cay) and feed grapes to the iguanas using twigs and sticks so that they do not bite your fingers. The return powerboat ride gets you back to Paradise Island around 5PM. If you are lucky, you may spot a dolphin along the way.

Island World Adventures ain't cheap, costing $160 per person (as of September 2002). The trip is comparable to an excursion I took around Cairns, Australia in November 2001, but that was under $100. Still, if you want a fun splurge, the Island World Exuma Excursion is a good way to spend a fun day in the sun. My tour was rained out the first day, but my excursions expert at Club Med was able to book me for the next day. It is recommended that you book at least one day in advance so you do not miss out.