As recently as 10 years ago, on any given summer day there would be no more than a couple of other people on this beach aside from our group. Nowadays, you’d be hard-pressed to find parking even alongside the highway anywhere near this place. However, the unusual "double reef" system and elaborate underwater tunnel system makes this beach one of my favorites.
WHERE IT IS: A long haul from my home in Wailua, Tunnels Beach is near the "end of the road" in the small North Shore community of Haena, just before Haena Beach Park and the Dry Cave.
HOW TO GET THERE: From Kapaa, head north – ALL THE WAY north about 30 miles. It’s actually a pretty scenic and enjoyable ride, even for us locals. Passing Hanalei town, the road becomes quite windy and slow. Driving high along the cliffs of Lumahai on a narrow two-lane road can be a bit nerve-racking, but your almost there! Across the two single-lane wooden bridges in Wainiha followed by a short mile through Haena and you there--look for the line of parked cars along the highway, park, then follow the crowd.
WHEN TO GO THERE: As always, the North Shore is no place to be in the Winter – unless you’re staying on the beach a safe distance from the water. Flat season (primetime for diving) begins late spring and lasts through early to mid fall.
WHAT TO DO THERE: Though it’s getting almost intolerably crowded, the inner reef is an excellent scuba-diving site for the beginner. Along the edge of the reef you can dive in, out, and through an elaborate tunnel system with sites that literally take your breath away. If you’re lucky, you’ll run across one of the resident gray reef, white tip, or black tip sharks. No worries – as long as you keep your distance, most of these guys are more afraid of you than you of them. Also, though it is too crowded nowadays, Tunnels used to be our favorite spear-fishing and netting site.