Quote: TOPKAPI PALACE:
We planned to get to the Palace as it opened in order to avoid the crowds so we headed on turning left out of our hotel towards Gulhane Parki and then on up the drive towards the Palace entrance. The tickets were 20Turkish Lira for the Palace and another 15 Turkish Lira for the Harem. We were there early so we headed straight for the Harem as queues build up quickly as numbers allowed to enter are limited.

Originally the Palace was built for Mehmet the conqueror not long after he took over the city of Constantinople in 1459. The Palace is a huge complex of several courts and living quarters and in its heyday it held a population of over 3,000 people from servants to concubines to officials and royalty. It was the last word in luxury and opulence and was the home for the sultans for over 300 years. It was really an entire city within a city and allowed the Sultan’s family some privacy within these walls. Originally the Palace was named Yeni Sarayi (New palace) and the name change to Topkapi Palace came in the 19th century and it was named after a gate which no longer exists.

The Palace has had parts destroyed by fire and other parts added over the years and covers a huge area of about 700,000 sq metres from the Gulhane Park to the Sea of Marmara on a high promontory. The Harem was where the Sultan’s mother, wives, concubines and children lived and of course the eunuchs who guarded the women. There are many rooms connected by corridors and courtyards within this complex. Many of the rooms were beautifully tiled and highly decorated and I particularly liked the Privy Chamber of Ahmed III which had walls covered in paintings of flowers and fruit and may have been a dining room – it is called the fruit room (Yemis Odasi) today .The Sultan and the Queen mother’s baths were also rather spectacular with golden grills and in the Turkish style with hot and cold bath areas. There are many other areas of interest in the Harem from the Golden corridor or road so called as the Sultan was supposed to have thrown down coins for the concubines on festival days. It is well worth a visit even if you do have to pay extra as it does give an idea of how the women lived and many rooms are beautifully decorated in an Ottoman style which is quite different from our style of this era. As you go through the Harem you are taken from room to room and eventually end up back in the main Palace through the Aviary or Harem Gate.

You could spend a whole day in the Palace but being unable to take in too much historical information in one go we chose a few buildings that we thought would be of interest to us and visited them.

The place that we found most fascinating was the Privy Chamber where there was the most incredible collection of sacred relics including; the staff of Moses presumably the one used to part the Red Sea, locks from the Kabah in Mecca, Joseph’s turban (not sure if this was Jesus’ dad or the one with the many coloured coat!), swords from the first four Caliphs and a carpet that belonged to the daughter of Mohammed and also John The Baptist’s arm encased in a metal sleeve. The most prized relics for Muslims are those that belonged to Mohammed; his cloak, his sword, one of his teeth, his battle sabres, an autographed letter and several phials containing hair from his beard. These items were considered so sacred that even the sultan and his family only visited them on the 15th day of Ramadan each year but luckily although Muslims still make this visit as a pilgrimage it is possible for anyone to see these items whenever the Palace is open. It is hard to believe that some of these are actually what they are believed to be but if they really are then, amazing and weird pieces of biblical and religious history is there for all to experience.
Another building that held a bit of a macabre interest for us was The Circumcision Room. This room was built in 1640 as a room for the circumcision of the Princes as circumcision is a rite of passage in the Muslim faith. Today it is of course empty apart from the decorative tiles which cover the outside walls and interior. They are recycled antique tiles from other palaces and are extremely beautiful. Inside the room is symmetrical with stained glass windows and fountains in the window bays. I am not sure whether the young princes would have appreciated the decor at the time but it was very beautiful.

The gardens in the Palace were once again full of spring bulbs and colourful. Some of the trees were interesting as they were hollow. Apparently they had been affected by a fungus which hollowed out the trunk but the trees are still alive but it does make them look a bit odd or very intriguing if you are a young child as it is somewhere good to hide.

We spent about four hours in the Palace and walked for miles in and out of the various room, kiosk and buildings. There really was a lot to see but it is hard to do it justice so I have picked on a few areas that most interested us to share with you.

If you are in Istanbul then this is somewhere you should visit.

Quote: The Topkapi Sarayi occupies the most easterly point of Sultanahmet. To the south is the Sea of Marmara, to the east the Bosphorus, to the north the Golden Horn. This creates some quite heavenly fresh breezes around this pleasant wooded area, and it is understandable that this has always been prime real estate (the palace of the Byzantine emperors lay just to the south west). Since the mid-15th century it has been occupied by the famed Topkapi Palace, home of the Sultans of the Ottoman Empire and the Caliphs of Islam until 1853, practically a suburb in itself.

The ‘First Courtyard’ of the Palace lies outside its walls. This was free for all citizens to visit. Now there are two access points – through the Imperial Gate near Aya Sofya and up past the Aya Irene church, or up through the signposted paths into Gülhane Park to the north-west towards Sikeci. Here you circle to the right past the entrance to the archaeological museums and the Darphane (former Imperial mint). The turretted Gate of Salutations, resonant more of Bavaria than the Bosphorus, marks the entrance to the palace proper. The ticket offices are just to the right. We arrived at 9:00 prompt, opening time, and there were no queues – we paid our 20TL each and received our tickets. These tickets allow you access to the Second, Third and Fourth Courtyards and the associated museum collections (including the Treasury, despite what some guidebooks state). The only section of the palace off-limits is the Imperial living quarters or Harem, for which there is another ticket stand just before its entrance – I will cover this separately.

Once through the Gate of Salutations, or Ortakapi (Middle Gate), you find yourself in the Second Court, given over to the administration of the realm. Ahead across the court is the Bab-üs Saadet, the Gate of Felicity. The entire right-hand wall of the court is given over to kitchens to feed the palace’s inhabitants. To the left were the stables. Ahead and to the left is the entrance to the Harem, and the Divan. The Divan is a surprisingly small set of rooms where affairs of state were settled by the imperial councillors. It takes its name from the red-upholstered couch running along the walls. In one wall you can see a golden grille – this was known as ‘The Eye of the Sultan’, as it was from here that the more responsible (or paranoid) sultans could keep an eye on his advisers. In time the administration moved out to the Sublime Porte of the Grand Viziers.

You pass from the Second Courtyrad to (logiocally enough) the Third Courtyard through the Gate of Felicity. These was a more private are for the sultan; back in the day no one could pass through this gate without the sultan’s express permission. Even the Grand Vizier was only granted authorisation of specified times and under specified conditions. Consider yourself privileged! Immediately ahead is the colonnaded Throne Room, and beyond it the modest grey library of Ahmet III. The outside walls of the courtyard are now occupied by various themed exhibitions. I will tackle them in an anticlockwise direction, heading right as soon as you bypass the Throne Room.

First is the Hall of the Campaign Pages, now home to the Imperial Wardrobe Collection. Upon the death of a sultan his clothes were ceremoniously packed away in sealed bags and stored… somewhere. Which means that today we are able to see almost pristine clothing dating back to Mehmet the Conqueror in the 15th century. There are a lot of sumptuous embroidered silks that had the girls in the party cooing. One cannot help but wonder at the physiques of the sultans who wore such kaftans, close fitting over the chest, but so long and wide below the waist. And you can also see the westernisation of the sultanate in the 19th century as silks and robes gave way to greys and military uniforms.

Next along is the Treasury. It is worthwhile to get here early. We got in with no trouble, but by the time we left there was quite a long queue. You get a bit regimented here. Essentially guards ensure you filter around the walls of a set of joined rooms, once the Pavillion of Mehmet II, at walking pace. The treasures of the Ottoman sultans are displayed behind glass. No dawdling, or running, or loud voices are tolerated!

The displays are heaven for those who like their bling. Magnificent confections of gemstones and gold are interspersed among more delicate craftsmanship. One of the stand-outs is the Topkapi Dagger, made famous by the 1964 film Topkapi that saw Peter Ustinov win an Oscar. The hilt of this curved weapon is decorated with three chunky emeralds (one of which apparently hides a watch!). This was to have been a diplomatic gift from Sultan Mahmut I to the Shah of Persia in 1741. After it had been dispatched east news came through to Istanbul that the Shah had been assassinated (Shah mat, checkmate, ‘the king is ambushed’). Riders were immediately sent out to overtake the diplomatic mission and bring the Dagger back to Topkapi. Another interesting display shows the awards and orders granted to the 19th century sultans by European powers. It is interesting to note that sultans such as Abdulmecid I and Abdulaziz were granted the Order of the Garter by Queen Victoria in practically the same era that Gladstone (four times her prime minister) was calling for the Turks to be swept "bag and baggage" out of Europe (indeed his railing against the Ottomans’ ‘Bulgarian atrocities’ during his 1879 Midlothian Campaign led to Gladstone winning the general election). Other distinctions come from France, Spain, and Denmark.

After these first two rooms there is a small portico in the corner, looking out of the water and seemingly catching every possible breeze. Put simply, this is the loveliest spot in Istanbul. It would have been worth becoming sultan just for the view and the chance to relax here alone.

Continuing into the third room you find the Spoonmaker’s Diamond. This is the fifth largest diamond in the world and used to adorn the turban of the sultan. According to legend it was found in an Istanbul midden in the 16th century. Its discoverer, not knowing its worth, sold it for three spoons.

Across the courtyard is the Pavilion of the Holy Mantle, home to the sacred relics collected by the sultans in their role as Caliph of Islam. Chief amongst these is the cloak (mantle) of the Prophet Mohammed (PBUH) himself. Mohammed is also represented by a cast of his footprint, a tooth, a letter from him, and a hair of his beard ("By the beard of the Prophet!"). Relics of other figures from the great monotheistic religions are also on display – the hand of John the Baptist, the sword of King David, the staff of Moses, and (and I swear I’m not making this up!) the frying pan of Abraham. Which is presumably where he made his holy macaroni. There are also assorted locks and keys to the ka’aba in Mecca, which fell under the caliphs’ guardianship until the Arab Revolt.

A fourth gallery is next door, a selection of paintings and miniatures of the sultans. Frankly you can miss this, though as it is free you might as well browse for a few minutes ogling the size of Suleyman the Magnificent’s turban and noting how portraiture took on more conventional European models in the 19th century.

Out into the Fourth Courtyard you are presented with the Ottomans’ private gardens. Again, some of the loveliest spots in Istanbul. Bear left past the Revan Kiosk . Here you will find a large shallow pool and a terrace. The left of the terrace is anchored by the Circumcision Kiosk, the right by the wonderfully ornate Baghdad Kiosk. This kiosk is superb inside – stained glass windows, delicate blue tiles on the walls, red tiles on the underside of the dome, inlaid mother-of-pearl cupboard doors. Back on the terrace there is a little pergola’d bower overlooking the lower gardens and with a view across to Galata. The sultans apparently used to break their fasts here – how sweet.

There is a reason the Topkapi Palace is the top tourist attraction in Istanbul. Combined with a tour of the harem, it is a great look into a period of absolute rule, overlaid with the orientalist mysteries that have fascinated westerners for centuries – sultans and viziers, concubines and eunuchs, machinations and debauchery, luxury and cruelty, all knit together in the history of the Ottoman empire. Notably, when the sultans started to consciously model themselves after European monarchs in the mid-19th century (and became a heck of a lot more boring!) they vacated Topkapi for more decorous residences. Topkapi Palace shows you the glory, the majesty and the madness of the Ottomans in their prime.

Quote: Topkapi Palace, the home of the sultans from the 15th to the 19th centuries, is a large compound; its most impressive area is the harem where the women and children lived, including the concubines. Here one finds intricate tile work, dazzling stained-glass windows, and exquisite tortoise-shell and mother-of-pearl doors and shutters that give you an idea of the opulence of their lifestyle. Elsewhere in the Palace are rooms displaying rich robes, suits of armor and weaponry, furnishings of silver, crystal, and porcelain, often jewel-encrusted. There is also a library, an indication of their interest in education and knowledge.

Quote: Topkapi Palace was the home to sultans for hundreds of years. It is an expansive structure that is a must-see for any visitor to Istanbul. Yet...I was also disappointed by it. But let me get to that later.

You approach the palace via the first courtyard, a place where you can wander for free. It has always been like this. The general public has always been able to congregate here.

For entry into the second courtyard, you must pay 10 Turkish Lyra per person. Here you'll find ancient cyprus trees, the Gate of Felicity where the sultan would have occupied his throne, and throngs of cruise ship crowds gathered around their tour guides. You will not find much to guide you unless you have a guidebook. Of course, guides are available outside the gate, but one we approached would have cost an additional 50 euros. To the right you'll see the palace kitchens with their rows of chimneys. In place of yummy foods to eat, you'll see various collections of fine china and pottery.

Once in the third courtyard, you'll find the Imperial Treasury, which contains several items of interest. First, there's the Topkapi Dagger, which we sought out. Second was the Spoonmaker's Diamond. According to a sign, this giant jewel was actually found in a rubbish heap before making its way to the sultan's turban! That gives a new meaning to the saying, "One man's trash is another man's treasure," eh?

Once into the fourth courtyard, you feel as if you are really getting into the sultans' inner sanctum. Here you'll find beautiful buildings tiled in blue and turquoise. You can access the Harem from here though it will cost you another 10 lyra per person. THIS is where I met disappointment.

I was very much looking forward to the Harem Tour. I had read about the stories told during the tour, the history that brings old buildings to life...so we arrived at the palace early just to join this. However, while we still had to pay the 10 lyra, there was no guide working the day of our visit. We were told to wander through the rooms...many of which have only the sparsest of signs to explain what they were.

Is the Harem still worth seeing it?
Well, yes.

You start at the Court of the Black Eunuchs and follow the Golden Road through the Harem. (The Golden road is not paved in gold. It's called this because the sultan used to throw gold coins onto it for the members of the harem.)

Many of the rooms you see are easy to imagine as inhabited with beautiful women...women looking off to the water from the Harem's courtyard enjoying great power if they were of a certain position... yet forever denied freedom...birds in guilded cages.

My husband and son really enjoyed Topkapi, and you have to see it. If you can, pick up some sort of guiding literature before you go.

Quote: This is a beautiful palace that was the home of one of the Sultan's and his entire family and those who worked for him. It is huge. The grounds are being beautified and restored continuously. There are some areas inside that contain relics of the royal family, such as swords, dinnerware, clothing, furniture...that are under security due to the magnificence of the items. Some of them are pure gold, and precious gemstones of many colors. It is a true sign of the royalty and how well off they were. An amazing site to see. Many "ooh's" and "aah's" in here. Unimaginable wealth.