Staying at Hotel Carlos V, in the middle of the pedestrian center, we were surprised at how quiet the area was during the day and how busy it became after what Americans would consider business hours. The first night there, not wanting to venture into the town after dark because of jet lag and all the talk about muggings, we decided to check out the restaurant recommended by our guidebook at around 7pm. To our disappointment, it was closed. We later find out from our hotel that Madrilenos observe late dining hours and restaurants do not even open until eight or nine o'clock.
Nightowls wil find Madrid a paradise every night of the week. A typical night would begin at about 11pm at a club, with the most serious clubs starting around 1am and staying open until well beyond dawn. Street life reaches rush-hour proportions at 4am. While the busiest nights are Friday and Saturday, with Thursday a close runner-up, the locals go out every night and, miraculously, manage to work or study during the day. Perhaps the secret to endless energy lies in the tapas snacks throughout the night or could it be the thick hot chocolate, accompanied with sweet, fried churros downed at dawn after a long night out on the town?
Nightlife converges in three major districts: the Chueca (Madrid's gay village, also a trendy location for straights); Huertas (traditional Spanish music and smart clubs and bars); and around the Plaza del Dos de Mayo in the Malasaña district (favoured by a hip young crowd). Small streets off Gran Vía form the city's red-light district.
The nightlife scene is varied, with music halls, clubs, cafés, cocktail bars and flamenco tablaos all playing a role.
Madrid's bars range from dark, wooden-panelled taverns to fabulous establishments decorated with painted tiles of typical Madrid scenes from the 1900s or Velázquez's The Drunkards.
The best tapas bars are clustered in the narrow central streets. As dawn breaks, try Chocolatéria San Ginés, a mecca for hot chocolate and churros.
Madrid moves to the sound of Latin American music, world music, mainstream disco, flamenco, salsa, jazz. Most tourists converge on the clubs around the Sol and Gran Vía, but you may want to try out some of the local haunts instead. There is no admission charge and chic dress is recommended.