Back in 1078, the White Tower - the earliest building in what is today the Tower of London - was built. In the centuries since (and tumultuous years they’ve been), many buildings have been added, many sieges broken, and many histories written. This is the ultimate in historical castles, and it’s worth a visit.
A moated fortress with 3 lines of defense, the Tower’s best seen on a guided tour led by a `beefeater’ (strictly speaking, a `yeoman warder’). We took the last tour of the day - at 3:15 pm - and found our guide immensely entertaining and informative.
The Tower of London’s been, at various times, a castle, an arsenal, a storeroom for records, and a prison. Beginning at the gate, the tour goes through much of the castle - past Traitor’s Gate, St Thomas’ Tower, Bloody Tower , and the Chapel of St Peter ad Vincula (`St Peter in Chains’), where the headless bodies of 1,500 traitors (proven or otherwise) had once been interred under the flagstones to be later exhumed and given a Christian burial; at the altar, the bodies of three of Henry VIII’s wives still lie.
While at the chapel, take a look at the beautifully carved wood under the organ: it was worked by the master carver Grinling Gibbons, who always incorporated peapods in whatever he carved. He carved the pods open (if he’d been paid for the job) or closed (if he hadn’t). The ones at St Peter ad Vincula are open.
The tour proceeds to the Jewel House, which houses the Crown jewels - solid gold, heavily jeweled sceptres, crowns, diadems, swords, flagons, chalices, altar plates, and more. The most stupendous is a punch bowl the size of a small bathtub, all gold and very ornate.
Beyond the Jewel House is the White Tower (outside which is part of the Roman wall from the first fortress on the site). The White Tower has original garderobes (medieval toilets basically with a chute leading straight down into the moat), fireplaces, staircases, prisons, armouries, and guardrooms dating back through the ages. The Tower’s many prisoners left rather a lot of graffiti behind - you can actually see an inscription scratched by Thomas Culpeper onto a wall: "Be faithful unto death, etc, etc.", and signed with his name. Somewhat creepy.
Within the White Tower’s a huge collection of medieval weaponry - shields, armour (for both man and horse; the display includes Henry VIII's armour), pikes, halberds, lances, swords, helmets and what not. Also on display are an executioner’s block and the axe used to chop off Anne Boleyn’s head.
Incidentally, they say that while ravens live at the Tower, it will stand - the day they leave, the Tower will fall, and so will England. Logically (if you go by that illogical reasoning), the ravens are a pampered lot - they’re fed special rations of blood-soaked biscuit and raw meat, their wings are clipped, and so on. Idiotic but quaint.