A Russian Winter

You will never run out of things to do in St. Petersburg! First and foremost is the Hermitage. The church of the Spilled Blood was my favorite church, though it is smaller than St. Issac''s. The heart of St. Petersburg is the thoroughfare known as Nevsky Prospect. It is a destination in itself and many of the major sites (such as the Hermitage) as located on it. You''ll find the locals strolling on Nevsky Prospect in Summer. The canals (St. Petersburg is known as the ''Venice of the North'') provide a lovely setting year round. The cultural attractions - the Kirov Ballet, the Opera, the Theater are a great way to spend an evening. Tourists are charged *much* more than locals. If you know some Russian, you might be able to fake it and save some money if you pay attention to how you are dressed. Leave some time for Peter and Paul''s Fortress and day trips to Pushkin and Petrodvorets.

Quick Tips:

Stay alert in St. Petersburg, especially at night. Several people I met had been scammed by ''police officers'' when they were leaving clubs and had knocked back a few beers.

The best place to buy souvenirs is the market by the Church of the Spilled Blood. Haggling, and payment in American dollars, is encouraged. Getting Russian Rubles is *no* problem if you bring your ATM card. ATM cards are everywhere along Nevsky Prospect and the rate is far better than that being offered in banks. It is now possible to go to St. Petersburg from Helsinki without an advance Russian visa. This is a wonderful way to see this amazing city with no red tape.

Best Way To Get Around:

Walking around St. Petersburg is the best way to see the city - just be prepared for ice on the sidewalks in winter! The St. Petersburg Metro is very clean and efficient. However, the signs are predominantly in Cyrillic. Take the time to learn the alphabet and you will be rewarded. Buses run everywhere, but you should consult a local to make sure it''s going in the direction you need.

Taxis are also an option, but be prepared to be charged tourist prices. I got around primarily by walking, using the Metro, and hailing ''unofficial'' cabs - locals looking for a few dollars. In summer, I''m sure walking would be even easier.

The St. Petersburg International Hostel is the place to stay for budget travelers. Even if you're not on a budget, you might find the lively atmosphere and the chance to meet other travelers a draw. The hostel is very close to Plosschad Vosstania Metro stop and is in a residential area with many supermarkets, restaurants, and pubs. Accomodations are available to suit all needs - from dormitory rooms to double rooms. The only catch is that the dorm rooms are segregated by sex. If you're traveling as a couple, you may want the double room.

Breakfast is served every morning and is substantial. For those on a tight budget, I found the kitchen to be serviceable. The hostel also has a TV room with international TVs and movies in English. Also available is the internet.

I can highly recommend Peter's walking tours of St. Petersburg. This was, without a doubt, the highlight of my trip. The tour leaves from the hostel and can be customized to suit your personal interest. Cost ranges from 300-500 rubles. The hostel can arrange Russian visas, which is a blessing, as well as onward train/air/or bus travel in Russia or Eastern Europe. There is a travel agency located in the hostel that I found to have the latest information. A big help!

What a gem! A group of us made the long-haul to Vasilyavsky Island in search of Indian fare and we weren't disappointed. The food was some of the best Indian I've had and far outdid the reigning king of Indian cuisine in St. Petersburg (Tandoor - review to follow).

The staff was incredibly accommodating, even staying late to serve a group of 10 foreigners. The restaurant features the usual Indian fare at Western prices in a dimly-lit and exotic atmosphere. We had samosas, a variety of chicken and goat dishes with rice, and naan bread. We got to meet the lovely belly-dancer, but missed her performance.

In a city not known for it's good selection of ethnic dining - this one stands out.

Getting out of the city and traveling by train or taxi to Pushkin allows you to visit the palace of Catherine the Great -- or Tsarskoe Selo, a splendid example of Russian Baroque architecture designed by Rastrelli, amongst others. A striking complement of turquoise and gild, the palace was used to hold court in the Summer by various tsars from the time of Catherine.

The tour of the main building is available in several languages, including English. Joining a tour from St. Petersburg will ensure that you get the tour in English, but is more costly than going on your own. Be prepared to take your shoes off and don slippers. The interior has been mostly restored, following a devestating attack in WWII. Restorations are ongoing to bring it up to the pre-war attack, including restoration of the famed Amber room.

Make a day of your trip to Pushkin, as the grounds are magnificent and several smaller buildings merit investigation. The smaller Hermitage is a mirror of the larger building. Pushkin also features the Alexander palace and is an easy taxi ride from Pavlovsk.

The Hermitage is the largest collection of art in the world. It's set in the rooms and buildings of the Winter Palace, the former residence of Russian Czars up through Nicholas II. The baroque and roccoco architecture and interior alone is worth a visit! Located in the heart of St. Petersburg overlooking the Neva River, the Hermitage is a must see for any visitor to the city. Be aware that transport to the Hermitage is best accomplished by bus or taxi in bad weather or if you are unable to walk long distances. The closest subway stops (Gostiny Dvor or Nevskiy Prospect) are a fair ways away, but a nice walk in good weather.

Plan on allowing at least 2 days to fully take in all that the museum has to offer. Tours are available in many languages, including English, French, and German. The Hermitage has an excellent website here. There is an extra charge for using your camera or videocamera inside. As much of the museum is 'no flash allowed', you may find the camera to be a liability. Despite the admonitions, I noticed many locals using their flash--though I can't recommend it. Also, be prepared to check your coat in winter. It's required.

The exhibits are set up by geogrpahic location and time period, such as Oriental Art and Western European Art. The Hermitage is actually a collection of buildings, the largest of which is the Great Hermitage. It not within the scope of this review to describe all the art in the Hermitage. It is the largest collection in the world! Rather, rest assured, if you like an artist or type of art, there's a good chance that it's represented.

There is a cafe on-site and many vendors selling street food. However, you are very close to Nevsky Prospect and it's large selection of high-quality restaurants.

Peter''s Walking tours are budget tours, given in English, that allow you to experience St. Petersburg with a native guide. Mostly aimed at the backpacker crowd, I would highly recommend these tours to anybody who wants a chance to get a real introduction to this wonderful city. The tours range from 3-6 hours and cover a variety of subjects. Unlike higher-priced tours, these tours get you on the ground (and on public transport) and give you a chance to see parts of the city that simply are not covered by the "highlight" bus tours.

Peter''s offers many tours, including a "Top Five" tour, a Rasputin tour, and a Food Tour. I opted for the Communist Legacy Tour. It is a 3 hour tour that explores the Communist architecture and history still left in St. Petersburg. Given that it was January, I was extremely lucky that the weather was nice! My guide, Michael, took me all around St. Petersburg and was extremely knowledgable and friendly. Aside from being a great guide, Michael also offered excellent recommendations on things to do and see in St. Petersburg and insider tips on what to avoid.

All in all, this was an A+ experience!